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MOTIFS AND TEXTILES PATTERNS OF MEGHALAYA

Shared and contributed by Anna-Louise Meynell from her research catalog

An Archive of Traditional Handwoven Textiles Celebrating the Textile Heritage of the Ri Bhoi District.
Thoh Shiliang
Garment: 
Thoh Shilliang, worn as a shawl, or one shoulder.
Description: 
Fine handspun warp and weft, undyed eri silk and red, naturally dyed with stick lac. Weft faced plain weave construction. Woven on a floor loom.
Source: 
Umkon, Raid Nongtluh.
Samserla
Garment: 
Samserla, worn as a warp around, above bust.
Description: 
Handspun cotton, naturally dyed with indigo and jaju leaf (red). Woven on floor loom.
Source: 
Umden/Diwon, Raid Nongtluh
Chappang
Garment: 
Chappang. worn pinned on one shoulder.
Description: 
Fine handspun and off-white eri silkwarp with weft naturally dyed in stick lac red, turmeric yellow and iron ore black. Weft faced plain weave construction. Woven on floor loom.
Source: 
Umkon, Raid Nongtluh.
Chapang
Garment: 
Chapang, worn as a wrap around, above bust, or at waist, as seen in right hand side image above.
Description: 
Handspun eri silk, dyed with stick lac red, iron ore black and turmeric yellow. Woven on the floor loom.
Source: 
Umkhon, Raid Nongtluh.
Samseria-Jain Tawah Set
Garment: 
Samseria, wrap around worn above bust.
Description: 
Handspun warp and weft, naturally dyed in stick lac red and natural pff-white eri silk. Standard plain weave construction. Woven on the floor loom.
Source: 
Diwon, Raid Nongtluh.
Samseria-Jain Tawah Set
Garment: 
Samseria-Jain Tawah, shawl
Description: 
Millspun eri silk warp and handspun eri silk weft naturally dyed in stick lac red, turmeric yellow, iron ore black. Standard plain weave construction. Woven on the frame loom.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtlum.
Thoh Pan
Garment: 
Thoh Pan, length of cloth tied around the waist.
Description: 
Fine millspun eri silk warp and handspun weft, plain weave construction in the ground, with supplementary weft designs in eri silk, naturally dyed with stick lac red, turmeric yellow, iron ore black and onion green. Woven on frame loom.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh.
Chapang
Garment: 
Chapang, traditionally worm above bust or as a wrap around skirt.
Description: 
Handspun eri silk, dyed with stick lac red, iron ore black and turmeric yellow. Three groups of fine stripes the red ground, with border in black from iron ore. Woven on the floor loom.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh.
Jain Pain
Garment: 
Jain Pain, worn as a wrap around skirt.
Description: 
Pre-dyed polyester sourced from the local market, in red, maroon, off-white and yellow.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh
Khyrwang Thoh Stem
Garment: 
Khyrwang Thoh Stem, worn as a wrap-around.
Description: 
Stripes in naturally dyed turmeric and stick lac with fine stripes at border edge in natural off-white, iron ore black and turmeric yellow.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh
Muffler, Narrow Scarf
Garment: 
Muffler, Narrow Scarf.
Description: 
Handspun eri silk warp and weft. Plain weave ground with three bands of supplementary weft designs on each border in turmeric yellow. Woven on the floor loom.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh
Jain Tawah
Garment: 
Jain Tawah, shawl.
Description: 
Handspun eri silk warp and weft. Ground of check in natural off-white colour, check design in naturally dyed with iron ore black, stick lac red and turmeric yellow. Standard plain weave construction. Waven on the floor loom.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh
Thoh Bah
Garment: 
Thoh Bah, Variations of the Umden Checks.
Description: 
The image have been selected to illustrate the variations of the check theme. There are many different checks, weavers are experimenting with colour combinations and proportion to make new designs. large check designs are known as thohbah.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh
Thohriawstem
Garment: 
Thohriawstem, the Khasi check shawl.
Description: 
Handspun warp and weft. Plain weave ground with half centimeter squares in turmeric yellow and stick lac red 2cm border of plain red. Woven on the floor loom. This is the most distinct textile of the wider Khasi culture, not only the Khasi Bhoi Subtribe. They are often woven in the Ri Bhoi District but worn throughout Meghalaya.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh
Thohriawstem
Garment: 
Khasi check shawl with kheneg embroidery.
Description: 
Handspun warp and weft. Plain weave ground with 2cm squares in turmeric yellow and stick lac red, larger scale of the thohrewstem, Woven on the floor loom. This ised as a ground for khneng embroidery a technique to Shella, Cherrapunjee. It has become a part of the Khasi War traditional dress, specifically of the Shella area.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh and embroidery in Shella, Cherrapunjee.
Ryndia Tlem
Garment: 
Ryndia Tlem, narrow muffer scarf. Traditionally used by men, as a turban, or spong, but today primarily wocen in muffer size.
Description: 
Handspun eri silk warp and weft. Plain weave ground with three sets of three horizontal ribs and handknotted tasels. This is often woven in the Ri Bhoi District, and used throughout Meghalaya.
Source: 
Umden, Raid Nongtluh
Jain Pan
Garment: 
Jain Pan
Description: 
The captivating Khmat Pattern, or eye pattern, holds a special place in the heart of the Khat-ar Lyngdoh, a revered sub-tribe of Ri-Bhoi known to be skilled weavers.
Thoh Pan
Garment: 
Thoh Pan
Description: 
These intricate designs resemble triangular shapes and are often found woven into their traditional dress, including the thoh pan (dancers’ waistband) and the jainpein (wraparound skirt), preserving the beauty of their heritage.
Thoh Saru
Garment: 
Thoh Saru
Description: 
The Jaintias’ enchanting mauve and black, thoh saru stripes, will never fail to accentuate the elegance of their wearers and add to their grace.
Mulkron
Garment: 
Mulkron
Description: 
In the world of the Garos, the muikron, their signature concentric diamond motif, like a watchful eye, adorns the borders of their dakmanda and dakchari. The muikron is more than a motif; it symbolises auspiciousness.
Mynsang
Garment: 
Mynsang
Description: 
In ancient times, the Mangsang region was home to abundant peacocks, and the locals drew inspiration from the mesmerising beauty of a peacock’s eye for their diamond motifs. Over time, the design evolved into a perfectly shaped diamond, which now serves as a symbol of status and identity for the Garos, adorning their ethnic wear with grace and significance.
Khneng
Garment: 
Khneng
Description: 
Another almost forgotten art form, Khneng embroidery, is now brought back from the ashes, thanks to the Northeast Slow Food and Agrobiodiversity Society (NESFAS). This rare art of over two centuries from Mustoh village on the Bangladesh border was almost lost until NESFAS stumbled upon it and saved it from extinction.
Jain iong
Garment: 
Jain iong (SHAWL)
Description: 
Fine acrylic warp and weft, black ground with thin red stripes in plain weave construction. Wide border of supplementary weft design in yellow, red and green acrylic, sourced pre-dyed from the market. Woven on a basic frame loom.
Source: 
Mawryngkang, Hima Khat-ar Laygdoh.
Jain Tawah
Garment: 
Jain Tawah(Shawl)
Description: 
Fine acrylic warp and weft, white ground with thin red and black stripes in plain weave construction. Wide border of supplementary weft design in red and black acrylic. All yarn sourced pre-dyed from the market. Woven on a basic frame loom.
Source: 
Mawryngkang, Hima Khat-ar Lyngdoh
Jain Tawah
Garment: 
Jain Tawah(Shawl)
Description: 
Cotton warp and weft, white ground in plain weave construction. Wide border of supplementary weft designs in red and black acrylic, with floating motifs above design border. All yarn sourced pre-dyed from the market. Woven on a basic shaft frame loom.
Source: 
Mawryngkang, Hima Khat-ar Lyngdoh
Jain Tawah
Garment: 
Jain Tawah(Shawl)
Description: 
Handspun cotton warp and weft in plain weave construction. Wide stripe on border edge in black and red cotton sourced from the market. Woven on a floor loom.
Source: 
Pahambir, Hima Khat-ar Lyngdoh.
Jain Tawah
Garment: 
Jain Tawah(Shawl)
Description: 
Handspun cotton warp and weft in plain weave construction. Three narrow stripes at border edge in red cotton sourced from the market. Woven on a floor loom.
Source: 
Pahambir, Hima Khat-ar Lyngdoh.
Jain Tawah
Garment: 
Jain Tawah(Shawl)
Description: 
Handspun cotton warp and weft in plain weave construction. Wide stripe on border edge in black and red cotton sourced from the market. Woven on a floor loom.
Source: 
Pahambir, Hima Khat-ar Lyngdoh.
Jain Tawah
Garment: 
Jain Tawah(Shawl)
Description: 
Handspun cotton warp and wrft in plain weave construction. Wide stripe on border edge in black and red cotton sourced from the market. Woven on a floor loom.
Source: 
Umsaitkhlieng, Hima Khat-ar Lyngdoh.
Jain Pien
Garment: 
Jain Pien, wrap around tube skirt
Description: 
Fine acrylic warp and weft, black ground plain weave construction. Wide border of supplementary weft design in yellow, red and green acrylic, sourced pre-dyed from the market. Woven on a basic frame loom.
Source: 
Mawryngkang, Hima Khat-ar Lyngdoh
Jain Pien
Garment: 
Jain tawah, narrow shawl
Description: 
Handspun slubby eri silk warp and weft in plain weave construction. Narrow stripe on border edge with supplementary weft designs in red cotton sourced from the market. Woven on a floor loom.
Source: 
Mawiong, hima Khat-ar Lyngdoh
Paning(Karbi)
Garment: 
Paning, wraparound tube skirt
Description: 
Handspun cotton warp and weft naturally dyed in indigo. Horizontal pinstripes in natural off-white, with supplementary weft motifs along the border edge.
Source: 
Plasha
Pekok
Garment: 
Pekok, length of cloth pinned on one shoulder
Description: 
poly/cotton warp and weft. Horizontal stripes in red, white and black, with small motifs in supplementary weft along the border edge, framed by thin stripes in yellow. Woven on a thain ra, the Karbi frame loom.
Source: 
Plasha
Ringkok(Karbi)
Garment: 
Ringkok, length of cloth tied around the waist, as part of the traditional dancers attire or worn as a pongho, a mans turban.
Description: 
Millspun cotton warp and weft. Ground cloth in plain weave construction in red with designs in supplementary weft, in black and off-white. Multi-coloured short tassels attached to twisted warp tassels. Yarn probably sourced pre-dyed from the local market. Woven on a thain ra, the Karbi frame loom.
Source: 
Plasha
Jalso
Garment: 
Jalso, a shawl
Description: 
Millspun cotton warp and weft, black ground with vertical borders of bold red stripes in plain weave construction. Wide band of supplementary weft designs in pale yellow at the border edge. Woven on a thain ra, the Karbi frame loom. Yarn probably sourced pre-dyed from local market.
Source: 
Plasha
Jalso(Karbi)
Garment: 
Jalso, shawl
Description: 
Fine acrylic warp and weft, black ground with vertical borders of bold red yellow and white stripes in plain weave construction. Figurative motif of supplementary weft tree and multi coloured bird designs along the bottom, positioned above a thick braiding detail in red and white, and green and orange. This garment is traditionally used by Karbi of Assam, not those of Meghalaya. Woven on a thain ra, the Karbi frame loom. Yarn probably sourced pre-dyed from local market.
Source: 
Plasha
Jalso(Karbi)
Garment: 
Jalso, shawl
Description: 
Handspun cotton warp and weft in plain weave construction. Four lines of thick rib as a tone on tone detail at each edge. Woven on a thain ra, the Kharbi frame loom.
Source: 
Plasha
Jalso(Karbi)
Garment: 
Jalso, shawl
Description: 
Handspun cotton warp and weft in plain weave construction. Narrow red stripe on each edge and a group of three stripes in yellow, red and black at the border. Unfinished warp ends. Woven on a thain ra, the Karbi frame loom.
Source: 
Plasha
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