The art of dyeing with natural sources is an ancient practice in primitive societies worldwide. Unlike synthetic dyes, organic ones are not hazardous to human health. The local communities have preserved these age-old techniques, passing them from generation to generation.
Textiles of the Ri-Bhoi and Garo Hills districts of Meghalaya sport vibrant colours obtained from natural sources, and these regions are renowned for their traditional and sustainable natural dyeing techniques, mainly the dyeing of eri fibres.
Weavers in Ri-Bhoi district and East Garo Hills use similar dyeing techniques: using locally available plant, animal, and mineral sources such as leaves, seeds, tree bark, and iron ore or nails.
The unique process includes sourcing natural dyes and mordants. Mordanting is equally vital as the molecules of the mordants bind the dyes to the cloth’s fibres for colour fastness.

The local communities in RiBhoi and Garo Hills rely on various plant materials, animal sources, and minerals. These materials are more or less similar for both tribes.

The process is intricate, starting with the extraction of dyes by boiling them in water and keeping them in water for a specified time, usually sixty minutes, and then left to stand for about fifteen minutes before filtering. The filtrate then becomes the dyeing liquid after diluting to a specified requirement.

Mordants play a crucial role as they help bind the dyes to the fabric and enhance colourfastness. The natural pigment determines the mordant to use. For example, Iron ore requires Sohtung leaves and waitlam pyrthat as mordants; Onion peels require Sohkhu or Gosampe leaves. To extract the mordant, the dyers boil the leaves for forty-five minutes and then remove the mordant. Then follows mordanting at 80⁰C for thirty minutes and left to stand for another thirty minutes. The next step is rinsing, squeezing, and drying the mordanted material at room temperature, followed by dyeing. The dyeing process continues for about an hour at 80⁰-85⁰C, followed by soaping with non-ionic soap and drying at room temperature.

Mordanting requires skill and experience with perfect temperature and timing to achieve desired colour outcomes.

The diverse range of natural dyes and mordants in RiBhoi and Garo Hills produces impressive colours on eri silk fibres. Sohtung leaves and snep sohmylleng yield earthy tones like browns and greens. Chako seeds yield deep red hues, while dimble and turmeric offer vibrant yellows. Waitlam pyrthat is a source of rich indigo-like blues, while sla sohkhu produces shades of purple. Mordants enhance the colour spectrum, creating more profound and permanent shades.

In recent years eco-friendly natural dyes have greatly inspired the fashion world, and designers have rediscovered the significant advantages of natural dyes. But there are also challenges galore: deforestation, climate change, shifting land use patterns, and a decline in plant population. All these factors threaten the sustainability of the traditional dyeing practices and the cultural heritage that tags with it.

Considering the deep-rooted connection the dyeing community has with nature, it is only imperative that they get fullhearted support by promoting these traditional practices, which will safeguard the cultural heritage and preserve the environment.