TRADITIONAL WEAVING TOOLS

Meghalaya’s tribes have traditionally been self-sufficient in clothing, with spinners and weavers working their magic using age-old simple but highly functional handcrafted tools to create stunning textiles.
Yarn is the primary raw material to create a fabric, and the takli is the essential tool to spin yarn out of the disjointed fibres of the eri cocoons or cotton. The takli is a simple, hand-held spindle with a disc-like base. The spinner holds the cocoon cake in one hand while she smoothly and skilfully pulls out the strands onto the spindle with the other.
Ka phri or ka khlieh phri is the takli’s upper part, a round disc that adds weight to it, helping the fibre to stay firm on the spindle as it is being drafted. Once drafted, the eri fibre goes to the khwah or khwah sohpet, which winds the yarn in a crisscross pattern, starting from the centre, forming a neat skein which can then be transferred to the bobbin, also known as Ka Kla.
Traditional weaving tools are also as simple. In Ri-Bhoi, thain madan or floor weaving, is a weaving technique done on the floor loom, the loom is a simple structure handmade by locals using bamboo and wood. The process of setting up the loom takes 2-3 days to complete and one warp is only long enough for one shawl. Some of the most important parts of the loom are the luwi (string heddles) used to set up with each new warp to create the shed between the warp threads. The snad, the reed used to thread the warp threads through and beat the cloth after each pick or row of weft is also bamboo.Some weavers of Ri-Bhoi still practice weaving using this method and fabrics woven on the floor are considered to be of premium quality by the locals.
The Garos’ loin loom or back-strap loin-loom consists of a back strap and an adjustable footrest to keep the loom in tension. They have recently developed an improved version of the back-strap loin-loom with a frame raised above the floor and space for the weaver to sit comfortably on a stool.
Thain Ra is another fascinating loom prevalent in Plasha, Ri-Bhoi District. An upgrade of the floor loom blends elements from both the floor and frame looms, standing elevated from the ground with the help of bamboo supports and allowing a comfortable sitting space for the weaver. Thain Ra weaving is manual, without a shuttle, using crucial elements in the weaving process, like the reed and heald, similar to those on the frame loom and offering higher productivity and versatility to the weavers.
Traditional weaving tools of Meghalaya are built considering easy setting up and portability. As most weaving is a spare-time activity for women, the designs are minimalist but with unlimited outcomes.
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